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Sports Climbs UK

Welcome to the web pages of Sportsclimbs UK, a site designed for support to sports-climbing in England and Wales.

For those from further afield it is also intended to provide information to sports-climbing in the Peak and South Wales areas, together with photographs, maps and general crag information to tempt climbers into sampling some of the more 'backwater' cliffs of Britain.

This site is one for information purposes only. The inclusion of a crag or a route on this site does not imply that you have the right to climb there. Descriptions of climbs and sites are recorded for historical purposes only. Great effort has gone into this site to ensure that grades and descriptions are correct, but as always, climbers must use judgment to ensure that difficulties are within their capabilities and accept the consequence of their decision. This site is in no way an attempt to encourage climbers to climb on the cliffs described within.

The publisher of this site in no way accepts any responsibility for any errors it may contain, nor are liable for any injuries or damages arising from its use. Climbing is a dangerous pastime.

Updates

Gilwern Lower (20.7.17) loads of new routes on an easily accessible crag with ease of access. Unfortunately, someone has chosen to fly-tip here which makes the place feel a bit inhospitable.

Gilwern Main and Gilwern Preliminary crag (20.7.17) new routes and crag updated.

Wolfscote Dale : newly added with a cleaned-up Drabber Tor and two superb new routes at E2 and E3 respectively. Three new routes on the Left Celestial Twin. Bolt belays added to Drabber Tor making descent more easily achieved.

Silent Walls (19.7.17) another day another crag with a particular gem.

Calcite Bay (18.6.17) another new wall on the upper tier of the Trial Wall area of the Gower, situated 200m beyond Black Crack right and before Sinners Walls.

Sinners Walls (updated 7.5.17) a new crag a little further along the coastline from Trial Wall with a bunch of worthwhile and easily accessible routes.

New Tredegar (10.4.17) a completely new find in the South Wales Valleys with a dozen new routes on good quality, slabby sandstone. Still needs 'wear and tear' (or traffic) but will provide a popular venue.

Llanymynech (16.9.16): Please note that Shropshire Wildlife Trust as land managers of the site have forbidden sports climbing on the Foreigner Walls. The bolt hangers have begun to be slowly removed from the routes and are marked accordingly on the Foreigner Walls pages.

Staden Quarry : a number of new trad routes added and a new area added to the crag.

Cwmcarn : a newly updated crag in South Wales with a number of good routes

Sirhowy (updated 29.5.16) new crag photos and topos added

Staden Lower (updated 28.5.16) newly equipped and cleaned up with a batch of new routes

Abertwssyg (updated 28.5.16) new crag on South Wales sandstone.

Horse Thief Wall (updated 6.5.16) a new quarried wall with ease of access and a good sunny aspect with a handful of reasonable routes

Abbey Buttress (updated 10.4.16): a full clean up with lots of new routes added. New path dug out!

Pinfold Quick Tick Walls (added 28.1.16) an old wall added with all routes.

Llanymynech : (updated 6.10.2015) a superb crag near to Oswestry on the Welsh Borders. Long sport routes, some requiring a 70m rope, an excellent collection of classic trad face climbs. New wall Foreigner's Wall and lots of new routes. Another new wall added at the back of the Quarry with a number of lower grade 6 routes: Bay Wall . New Wall added: Cult Wall.

Garage Buttress (updated 28.1.16) a number of new routes and cleaning up of existing routes amongst the trad routes. Updated with more pitches.

Chee Dale (updated 28.1.2016) new routes have started to be added again. The Third Lift , Long Wall , Dog's Dinner Buttress , Moving Buttress and Plum Buttress have started the ball rolling.

Goddard's Quarry (28.1.16) a completely new wall has been developed as well as a new monster pitch, in the class of Too Monsterosity at Slaley Brook.

Harpur Hill: (updated 28.1.2016) completely updated with two relatively new areas and new routes spread all over the crag: The Racetrack : Pool Wall : The Playground. New regearing on The Dark Side Left and The Dark Side Right and The Sanctuary

Darlton Quarry : (updated 6.10.15) a new quarry opposite Stoney West with a batch of difficult mid range sports climbs.

Pin Dale Quarry : (updated 6.10.15) another new quarry with a number of easier grade sports route.

Golden Wall (20.3.15) new wall in the Stoney valley. Six routes with easy access.

The Retreat (20.6.14) A new bay with a number of short intense pitches and a few longer ones. New Crag at Harpur Hill

Stoney West (20.06.14) another fine 7a pitch added.

Majorca Buttress (added on 17.05.2014) 14 bouldery little routes from 6b to 7a+ in Water Cum Jolly.

Twilight Gully Crags :(7.7.2013) seven new routes on the established gully walls as well as a whole new upper tier .

Cawdor Quarry: (updated 9.7.2013) a new find in the Matlock area. Loads of route in the mid 6s through to a few harder offerings. Faces east and gets no sun but only 2 mins from the car. Porn walls regeared

Long Tor Quarry Right-Hand : (16.6.2013) a newly developed section of crag with a number of worthwhile and very easily accessible routes in the grade 6 region.

Craig Arthur (updated 9.9..2012): undoubtedly the finest of the crags in the Llangollen chain. Big and impressive with loads of superb trad. Routes and a small selection of quality sports route.

Smalldale: (updated 12.8.12) a superb venue with a varied selection of routes on quarried walls. Originally mostly in the 7s grade but now with a wealth of easiest routes in the low 6s on the Outlying Walls. All have good length but this is not a winter venue - great for a summer evening. All now regeared save for a few on the Crystal Maze Wall.

Ban Y Gor: (updated 28.5.2012) Whole crag completely updated with a number of new routes and regearings.

Crag X (updated 3.4.12) seven new routes added and whole crag recleaned and most routes regeared. Good climbing on excellent quality natural rock. Completely regeared

Helicopter Crag (updated 15.9.2011) a completely new sector to Hall Dale with a number of routes in the lower grades: Skyline Buttress.

Compact Walls/Independence Quarry: A whole new set of routes along the Clwyd limestone escarpment, mostly in the lower sports grades with easy access. All new photo topos.

Staden Quarry: (20.6.2010) new walls and loads of new routes the popular Peak traditional venue with loads of excellent face routes on the best quality quarried limestone.

Masson Lees (Updated 4.9.2010) this superb find of 2004 has now reached full maturity and is now completely dry. Give it a try, you know it makes sense.

The Ravine (updated 11.6.11) a relatively small venue with ease of access and a handful of worthwhile routes.

Slaley Brook: (26.5.10) recleaning of some of the longer routes has begun. Three new routes and cleaning of vegetation have improved the Marble Walls .

Pwlldu Bay: (updated 13.5.2010) Newly updated with a plethora of new routes. A truly idyllic setting straight from a magnificent beach. In the shade after midday.

Dinbren :completely updated, a superb quiet venue with a wealth of routes, some sports some trad . New routes from 2010 included.

Cowdale (updated 27.4.2010) completely cleaned up and regeared where necessary with stainless gear. 10 new routes of easier grades from 6a to 6c.

Trevor Rocks Quarry: (updated 22.1.2010) updated with a completely new series of walls, the DM Walls.

Watch House Crag: (14.7.09) a super little slabby venue tucked into the bays to the west of Fox Hole.

Watch House East: (14.7.09) a handful of excellent routes on a steep leaning wall. The perfect compliment to Fox Hole and Watch House crag.

Dinas Rock: (updated 13.7.09) has had a major clean up and most of the routes regeared where necessary. The Roadside Crag has loads of easier grade sport routes and the Main Wall is as good as any face in South Wales. There are also some new routes being added all over the cliff.

Mount Pleasant (updated 6.5.2009) a super little crag on the opposite wide of the valley to the Gap with a number of very good routes. Upper Tier now added.

The Racetrack and Pool Wall (6.10.08) two excellent little faces at Harpur Hill with a number of fine little face climbs all in the lower end of the sports grades.

Taffs Well Mai n :(updated 9.4.09) as predicted some rebolting and the production of a number of new routes is making this an easy-accessible and popular crag.

Tirpentwys (4.5.2009) another excellent little venue with a number of good quality routes with plenty in the lower sports climbing grade.

Gilwern (18.8.2008) a super new crag on the Head's of the Valley road with superb rock, views and climbing.

Long Tor Quarry: (23.5.2008) the old quarry in Matlock has received a big makeover care of two local climbers and has a number of excellent new routes together with the old ones being tidied up.

Dyfryn (updated 18.10.08) a super new crag on South Wales Sandstone. Topos to be updated shortly.

Blatant Buttress (updated 28.8.09) and Blackwell Halt: (updated 28.8.09) in the case of the former now completely rebolted and a handful of new routes added.

Turkey Dip Rocks (27.7.07) another crag to be recently updated in the bad weather. Steep and very overhanging with a handful of quality hard routes.

Horseshoe Quarry :(updated 3.4.2012) completely updated with new crag drawings and a complete update on 32 new routes since the guides.

The Gap (updated 24.9.07) newly updated with a number of new routes and diagrams.

Devil's Gorge: an impressive hole in the ground containing a classic of North Wales limestone and a number of less frequented slab routes. Condition defendant.

Gary Gibson on the first ascent of 4000, Stoney Middleton. Photo Mick Ryan

Gary Gibson on The Thief of Mad Dad (6b+), Horse Thief Quarry. Photo Nick Taylor

Giants (6c), on Plum Buttress in Cheedale.

Mark Richardson on Seventh Time Lucky (7b), Masson Lees. Photo: Ian Milward

Ian Carr on Swain's World, Harpur Hill

If you would like to contribute to my bolt fund with the intention of renewing old fixed gear on many of the crags on my web site please feel free to do so via the Paypal link below

Links:

Pass comments or have a look at mine on my Facebook pages
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Try the excellent on-line climbing shop that is Holdbreaker. Boots, harnesses, ropes, gear: everything the climber needs. www.holdbreaker.com

Take a look into my brother's field of art. Superb illustrative art alongside other more traditional mediums.
www.philipgibson.co.uk

For good gear at the best prices including 70m ropes and harnesses, try
Megagrip.co.uk

For news, weather, gear, routes, galleries and downloads all dedicated to rock climbing and mountaineering go to:
Mountaindays

For all your bolting needs whether replacement or new, go to
www.bolt-products.com








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